Day 1

So it turns out Dunkirk ferry port isn't in Dunkirk! They must have put it there when the google satellite went over then shifted it back to where it is now.

I met a fella on the ferry who was decked out in all the good gear and looked pretty serious. I think that may be the first and last time I judge a man favourably based on his Lycra outfit.

We jumped off the ferry and were funnelled through a series of roundabouts, but it was clear that Dunkirk was not close. After 4 or 5 km we realised we're on the motorway and this is our life now. It was a constant stream of cars and trucks honking at us. We couldn't get off, and they knew that, so I'm sure they just wanted to be certain that we knew we're stupid. Which we did.

When the sign that said Dunkirk was 13km away after what had already been a mad dash I started looking for ways out. We could jump the guard rail, go down the embankment, through the wheat field and we would have been on a really small, calm road like what I think they probably have in heaven. My new friend wasn't up for it though so we soldiered on.

Then we got to the bridge. Which was really a section of elevated highway. The shoulder narrowed significantly here and I wasn't up for riding it, but couldn't go back to jump the embankment either. So we dismounted and walked across, which was in no way more successful. It just prolonged the carnival of hatred. That bridge felt like it went forever and trucks were going 110 a few cm from me. I've never flinched so much in my life.

Eventually we came to an exit and got the hell out of there. As we were going down the exit 3 motorbike cops zoomed past on the motorway with lights flashing. I'm not sure if they were there for us but I suspect they were.

After that I went into Dunkirk, stocked up and headed south. I've stopped for a rest but think I might sleep here tonight. I'm about 35km from Ypres so that shouldn't be too rough tomorrow morning and will give me a chance to have a look around.

I'm outside a town called Bergues not far from Dunkirk. The town looks cool but I haven't explored it yet.

Time for cheese now.